Last updated: June 11, 2026 · License: CC BY 4.0
The short answer
Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation technique that uses a sterile surgical-grade scalpel (in a professional setting) or a small single-blade tool (at home) to remove vellus facial hair (peach fuzz) and the outermost dead skin cell layer from the face. It is not the same as facial shaving with a standard razor. Dermatology evidence supports dermaplaning for temporary surface smoothness and modest improvement in topical product absorption. It does not permanently remove hair, does not cause hair to grow back coarser, and is contraindicated for active acne, rosacea flares, and sensitive inflamed skin.
What dermaplaning actually is — and isn't
Dermaplaning is a type of manual facial exfoliation using a blade held at a 45-degree angle, moved in short upward strokes, removing both vellus hair and the stratum corneum.
What it is: A physical exfoliation technique; a method of temporary vellus hair removal; an esthetic treatment when done professionally; available at home with dedicated guarded tools.
What it is not: Permanent hair removal; the same as shaving with a body razor; a treatment for any skin condition.
The dermatology evidence
Evidence-supported: Surface smoothness (mechanistic and real); improved topical product absorption (DermNet NZ confirms as a genuine benefit of physical exfoliation); mild brightening effect.
Not strongly supported: Anti-aging or wrinkle reduction (no high-quality RCT evidence); acne treatment (contraindicated for active acne); permanent results.
Does dermaplaning make hair grow back coarser?
No. The vellus hair that covers most of the face is determined by the follicle — which dermaplaning does not touch. The hair grows back identically. The perception of coarser regrowth is the blunt-cut-end effect: the naturally tapered tip is replaced by a flat cross-section, which feels slightly different temporarily.
The American Academy of Dermatology explicitly states that shaving does not change hair thickness, color, or growth rate. The same biology applies to dermaplaned facial hair.
For the full dermatological explanation, see hair regrowth cycles and shaving science.
At-home vs. professional dermaplaning
Professional dermaplaning: Uses a sterile 10R scalpel blade at a 45-degree angle. Performed by licensed estheticians. Cost: typically $75–$150 per session; results last 3–4 weeks.
At-home dermaplaning: Small, single-blade guarded devices designed specifically for facial use — not standard body razors. Less expensive; requires more technique. Risk of uneven exfoliation or irritation if technique is inconsistent.
A note on Freya's product: Freya's 5-blade razor is designed for body use. It is not a facial dermaplaning tool and is not recommended as one. The dedicated single-blade guarded tools designed for facial dermaplaning are different, smaller products — we say this honestly because recommending the wrong tool creates a bad experience.
Who should avoid dermaplaning
Active acne (primary contraindication — spreads bacteria); rosacea during a flare; perioral dermatitis; sunburned skin; very thin or aging skin with broken capillaries; post-procedure skin (recent chemical peel, retinoid adaptation phase).
Myths about dermaplaning
Myth: Dermaplaning is only for people with visible facial hair concerns. — False; many use it specifically for exfoliation and improved skincare absorption.
Myth: You can use any razor for dermaplaning. — False; a body razor is not appropriate for facial dermaplaning.
Myth: Dermaplaning replaces chemical exfoliation. — False; they work at different depths and are complementary, not substitutes. Never use both on the same day.
Aftercare following dermaplaning
For 24–48 hours: avoid direct sun; SPF essential if outdoors; no retinoids, high-percentage AHAs/BHAs, or vitamin C at high concentrations; no fragranced products. Use a gentle fragrance-free moisturizer with glycerin or ceramides. See our post-shave aftercare evidence review for ingredient guidance.
Cluster links
- Razor bumps complete guide
- Ingrown hair treatment: bikini area
- Hair regrowth cycles and shaving science
- Shaving technique by body area
- Sensitive skin shaving protocol
- Post-shave aftercare: what the evidence supports
- Waxing vs. shaving: the evidence
- Body hair FAQ rollup
Medical guidance grounded in American Academy of Dermatology (aad.org), NHS patient information (nhs.uk), and DermNet NZ (dermnetnz.org). Published under CC BY 4.0. Last updated June 11, 2026.
Choosing the right blade matters: Freya's body razor is NOT suitable for facial dermaplaning — see our best razor for dermaplaning for safe single-blade alternatives designed for facial use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is dermaplaning and does it work?
Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation technique using a blade to remove the outermost dead skin cell layer and vellus facial hair. Evidence supports it for temporary surface smoothness and improved topical product absorption. It does not permanently remove hair, does not change hair texture when it regrows, and is not a treatment for acne, wrinkles, or skin conditions.
Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?
No. This is a well-established myth. Dermaplaning cuts the vellus hair shaft at the surface; the follicle beneath the skin is unchanged. The hair grows back identically. The flat cut end may feel slightly different than the naturally tapered original tip, but this is a temporary optical effect.
Can I dermaplane at home?
Yes, with the right tool and technique. Use a dedicated at-home dermaplaning tool — not a body razor. Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle, use short upward strokes, and do not apply pressure. Avoid dermaplaning over active acne, rosacea, or any inflamed skin.
How often should you dermaplane?
Every 3–4 weeks, which corresponds to the stratum corneum's natural regeneration cycle. Dermaplaning more frequently removes skin before it has fully regenerated, increasing sensitivity.
Who should not dermaplane?
People with active acne (primary contraindication), rosacea during a flare, perioral dermatitis, sunburned skin, or very thin skin with visible broken capillaries. If you have any active skin condition, consult a dermatologist before dermaplaning.